I've been busy studying at school but thought I'd use PICNIK to make a fun photo of the view from my computer lab.
De Maisonneuve - View from 9th floor Concordia UniversityWednesday, February 18, 2009
Photograph - De Maisonneuve
Hey all,
I've been busy studying at school but thought I'd use PICNIK to make a fun photo of the view from my computer lab.
De Maisonneuve - View from 9th floor Concordia University
I've been busy studying at school but thought I'd use PICNIK to make a fun photo of the view from my computer lab.
De Maisonneuve - View from 9th floor Concordia University
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Photo Tip - B&W vs. Grayscale (facebook edition)
[The following is directed to all with an emphasis to facebook users]
Often people upload photos to photo sharing sites like facebook or flikr and apply what they think is a black and white look to it. However, this is not a real black and white look; real being the result of B&W film. All that is occuring is the lowering or removal of color saturation. What is left are simply shades of grey. Although sometimes grayscale comes close, it often doesn't properly give the same feel as a real B&W photograph. One characteristic that lacks in a grayscale image is the "dirty graininess" of a B&W film. The difference can be seen here.
The grayscale photo has no colour but what remains is a flat photo with no depth and no contrast. A real B&W photograph has much contrast, depth and a often a more rough feel to it.
Here's a great site (as mentioned in previous posting) to give that photo a true B&W look.
http://www.picnik.com/app#/home/welcome
Watch for a future posting on B&W photography.
Often people upload photos to photo sharing sites like facebook or flikr and apply what they think is a black and white look to it. However, this is not a real black and white look; real being the result of B&W film. All that is occuring is the lowering or removal of color saturation. What is left are simply shades of grey. Although sometimes grayscale comes close, it often doesn't properly give the same feel as a real B&W photograph. One characteristic that lacks in a grayscale image is the "dirty graininess" of a B&W film. The difference can be seen here.
Grayscale vs.Black & White
Click to view large size
The grayscale photo has no colour but what remains is a flat photo with no depth and no contrast. A real B&W photograph has much contrast, depth and a often a more rough feel to it.
Here's a great site (as mentioned in previous posting) to give that photo a true B&W look.
http://www.picnik.com/app#/home/welcome
Watch for a future posting on B&W photography.
Friday, February 13, 2009
Featured Photo Tech - PICNIK
The following is for all
Click title for link
Many people spout the term Photoshop as the term used to fix, correct or manipulate a digital image. Although Photoshop, created by Adobe, is the industry's leading image manipulation software, it is also one of the most complex and highly difficult software available, not to mention expensive.
Often people desire to make simple corrections like brighten a photo or special effects such as sepia and believe photoshop is the only solution. This is the same as trying to go after a fly with a bazooka; a little overkill!
This is where PICNIK steps in. Picnik is an online website that lets you "play" with a photo to your heart's content. Best of all, it's free! Though there is an option to register for a paying account for premium functions (ie. curves and levels adjustments) , there are many free options to choose from.
Besides the basics for exposure and contrast (which also surprisingly includes functions for highlights and shadows with a tonal histogram), there are several high-end features from infrared to HDR. The B&W mode even has coloured filters for a true film-like effect.
You can get your photos from your own computer or online sites such as Facebook or Picasa. After you finish, you can save the image to several formats including .jpg or even .tif. All of this is done in a warm and user-friendly interface with no knowledge of layers or masks needed!
From the casual point-and-shoot to the pros-on-the-go, PICNIK is an easy and powerful way to get the most out of your pictures without having to bleed your wallet dry!
Click title for link
Many people spout the term Photoshop as the term used to fix, correct or manipulate a digital image. Although Photoshop, created by Adobe, is the industry's leading image manipulation software, it is also one of the most complex and highly difficult software available, not to mention expensive.Often people desire to make simple corrections like brighten a photo or special effects such as sepia and believe photoshop is the only solution. This is the same as trying to go after a fly with a bazooka; a little overkill!
This is where PICNIK steps in. Picnik is an online website that lets you "play" with a photo to your heart's content. Best of all, it's free! Though there is an option to register for a paying account for premium functions (ie. curves and levels adjustments) , there are many free options to choose from.
Besides the basics for exposure and contrast (which also surprisingly includes functions for highlights and shadows with a tonal histogram), there are several high-end features from infrared to HDR. The B&W mode even has coloured filters for a true film-like effect.
Samples using PICNIK
B&W with filtering -------- "1960's" with Cross-Processing
You can get your photos from your own computer or online sites such as Facebook or Picasa. After you finish, you can save the image to several formats including .jpg or even .tif. All of this is done in a warm and user-friendly interface with no knowledge of layers or masks needed!
From the casual point-and-shoot to the pros-on-the-go, PICNIK is an easy and powerful way to get the most out of your pictures without having to bleed your wallet dry!
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Filters
The following is for DSLR users
So it's been more than a month that many of you have had your DSLRs. A question I keep getting asked is "What filter should I have on my lens?" or "Do I need a filter"? Here's the 514 on that. Firstly, a filter will do two things for your lens. It will protect the lens and, depending on what type of filter, affect the image itself. Before I talk about different filters, let me answer if you really do need one or not.
With or Without Protection?
If ever you dropped the camera and it hits the ground lens first, having a filter will take the brunt of the impact (hopefully taking most of the damage) and leave the lens glass intact. This way, you'll just replace the damaged filter. Comparing this to the cost of having to repair the lens itself and you'll be wishing you spent that $20-70!
However, there is a downside. A filter can reduce the exposure anywhere from 1-2 stops and sometimes cause lens flare (like a ball or streak of light). As well, having a non coated filter vs. single or multi-coated filter can affect the quality of the colour and exposure.
In my personal experience, I have lens hoods on most of my lenses. So that in itself provides protection. So I do not use filters. BUT this is solely depending upon the user. Each person knows how they hold the camera and their personal habbits. So it really depends on how they use the camera. I do however recommend to new users to use filters for protection.
Different Types
Many filters today had stronger applications to film use than they do with DSLRs. This was because film was more sensitive to how light affected the quality of the photo since film was chemical based. Because cameras today are electronic in nature, some materials used for lens glass fabrication already reduce flare and because we can do many adjustments with photo software, many filters to be listed mostly serve to protect the lens rather than affect the photo itself.
UV - Absorbs the ultraviolet rays which often makes outdoor photographs hazy and indistinct. A muliti-purpose fine-weather filter for color as well as black and white films. Also serves as a permanent lens protector.
Note: In digital, mostly serves to protect the lens.
1A - Reduces the excessive bluishness that frequently occurs in outdoor color photography, especially in open shade under a clear, blue sky. The absorption peak is in the range which corresponds to the film's green spectrum. This means outstanding outdoor shots with superb color balance and clarity under all conditions. Also keeps skin tones free of colored reflections from nearby objects such as the shade of trees.
Note: In digital, mostly serves to protect the lens. Similar to UV with additional above mentioned function.
Circular Polarizer - They allow you to remove unwanted reflections from non-metallic surfaces such as water, glass etc. meaning you can shoot through windows. They also enable colors to become more saturated and appear clearer, with better contrast. This effect is often used to increase the contrast and saturation in blue skies and white clouds.
Note: Make sure the lens does not focus externally. Because the circular polarizer depends on how you rotate the filter, external focused lenses will rotate your filter altering the desired effect.
Here are some useful websites with further details on filters.
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/gf-01.html
http://photo.net/equipment/filters/
http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/filter/filter-UV.html
So it's been more than a month that many of you have had your DSLRs. A question I keep getting asked is "What filter should I have on my lens?" or "Do I need a filter"? Here's the 514 on that. Firstly, a filter will do two things for your lens. It will protect the lens and, depending on what type of filter, affect the image itself. Before I talk about different filters, let me answer if you really do need one or not.
With or Without Protection?
If ever you dropped the camera and it hits the ground lens first, having a filter will take the brunt of the impact (hopefully taking most of the damage) and leave the lens glass intact. This way, you'll just replace the damaged filter. Comparing this to the cost of having to repair the lens itself and you'll be wishing you spent that $20-70!
However, there is a downside. A filter can reduce the exposure anywhere from 1-2 stops and sometimes cause lens flare (like a ball or streak of light). As well, having a non coated filter vs. single or multi-coated filter can affect the quality of the colour and exposure.
In my personal experience, I have lens hoods on most of my lenses. So that in itself provides protection. So I do not use filters. BUT this is solely depending upon the user. Each person knows how they hold the camera and their personal habbits. So it really depends on how they use the camera. I do however recommend to new users to use filters for protection.
Different Types
Many filters today had stronger applications to film use than they do with DSLRs. This was because film was more sensitive to how light affected the quality of the photo since film was chemical based. Because cameras today are electronic in nature, some materials used for lens glass fabrication already reduce flare and because we can do many adjustments with photo software, many filters to be listed mostly serve to protect the lens rather than affect the photo itself.
UV - Absorbs the ultraviolet rays which often makes outdoor photographs hazy and indistinct. A muliti-purpose fine-weather filter for color as well as black and white films. Also serves as a permanent lens protector.
Note: In digital, mostly serves to protect the lens.
1A - Reduces the excessive bluishness that frequently occurs in outdoor color photography, especially in open shade under a clear, blue sky. The absorption peak is in the range which corresponds to the film's green spectrum. This means outstanding outdoor shots with superb color balance and clarity under all conditions. Also keeps skin tones free of colored reflections from nearby objects such as the shade of trees.
Note: In digital, mostly serves to protect the lens. Similar to UV with additional above mentioned function.
Circular Polarizer - They allow you to remove unwanted reflections from non-metallic surfaces such as water, glass etc. meaning you can shoot through windows. They also enable colors to become more saturated and appear clearer, with better contrast. This effect is often used to increase the contrast and saturation in blue skies and white clouds.
Note: Make sure the lens does not focus externally. Because the circular polarizer depends on how you rotate the filter, external focused lenses will rotate your filter altering the desired effect.
Here are some useful websites with further details on filters.
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/gf-01.html
http://photo.net/equipment/filters/
http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/filter/filter-UV.html
Friday, February 6, 2009
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